Follow the orange thread: Biodynamic Pecorino from Abruzzo (#ItalianFWT)

Last time I visited my local wine shop, I was hesitant to buy a particular wine. To allay my concerns, the owner kindly offered to open the bottle so we could taste the wine together. But this time, as soon as she lifted the biodynamic Lunaria Pecorino off the shelf, I knew it was the right choice.

Why? Because “biodynamic” and “Pecorino” combine two of my favorite things – a perfect fit for Le Mie Cose Preferite (My Favorite Things), this month’s Italian Food, Wine and Travel (#ItalianFWT) blogging theme. A complete list of blogs on this topic can be found below.

Favorite thing #1: Biodynamic

I immediately noticed an orange thread wrapped around the wine cork. At home, I researched the producer and learned this “mark” on Lunaria bottles signifies the ancient practice of rope binding for stopper closing. The thread is applied by hand, bottle by bottle. Orange is apparently the color of biodynamics (source).

Well, OK, that’s a highly visible and catchy marketing gimmick, I suppose. It certainly piqued my curiosity! Regardless, I look for “biodynamic” on a wine label because it ensures the producer follows a holistic approach that regards the farm as a living organism.

Biodynamic farming was 19^th century Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner’s reaction to the industrial agriculture prevalent in his day and still going strong in ours. Instead of loading the soil with synthetically produced fertilizers and pesticides, Steiner experimented with and advocated for using organic means of returning fertility and diversity to the soil.

Biodynamic farming follows time-honored traditions of planting and harvesting according to the cycles of the moon and other celestial events. Experience has shown that farming in harmony with nature, rather than against it, produces healthier soil.

Soil health, the capacity of soil to function as a living system (source), is probably not top of mind for consumers when they shop for wine. But the “dirty” truth is that soil health has impacts far beyond the quality of wine grapes or other crops. Healthy soil maintains a community of organisms that improve water and nutrient capacity. Further, says the U.N. Food and Agriculture Organization:

“A healthy soil does not pollute its environment and does contribute to mitigating climate change by maintaining or increasing its carbon content.”

Favorite thing #2: Pecorino

Pecorino is an old native variety that once grew wild in the Sibillini Mountains of central Italy, between Marche and Umbria. Some believe Pecorino, which means “little sheep,” was snack food for wandering sheep.

The grape was brought back from near extinction in the 1980s. Eventually, enough grapes were propagated to produce wine. Since the early 1990s, plantings have grown exponentially. Pecorino is now found across the Marche, Abruzzo, Umbria and Tuscany (source).

Pecorino is a thin-skinned grape high in both sugar and acidity. When fermented dry, the wine is fresh and crisp with reasonably high alcohol.

Lunaria Pecorino is fully biodynamic, organic and vegan. Cantina Orsogna, the wine producer, is a farming cooperative of almost 500 members and the largest producer of organic and biodynamic wines in south-central Italy

The company, which was founded in 1964, has almost 3,000 acres of olive trees and vines, 80% of which is certified organic and 30% is Demeter-certified biodynamic. Vineyards are located in Abruzzo, Italy, at more than 1,400 feet in altitude, on the slopes of Majella National Park and less than 10 miles from the Adriatic Sea. This is hot Mediterranean country (source).

Cantina Orsogna has been certified biodynamic since 2005 and has been organic producers for more than 30 years (source).

• 2024 Lunaria Civitas Pecorino, Terre di Chieti IGT – Straw-colored; intense aromas of pineapple, pear, apple and white flowers on the nose, followed by a highly acidic palate of grapefruit and lemon; medium finish. 13.5% alcohol. $18.

Favorite thing #3: Polenta and mushrooms

Surprise! Another Cose Preferite: Polenta and Italian-style, wild mushroom ragu. Polenta is one of my favorite comfort foods, and I’m a huge fan of umami-rich mushrooms.

Unfortunately, I couldn’t find dried porcini mushrooms for this recipe. Too bad, as they would have enhanced the taste. But I did have black truffle infused oil to deepen flavor. Yum!

My version of this ragu omits the heavy cream, and I use freshly grated Parmesan cheese only to top the finished dish. Because this ragu is not as rich as called for, the grainy polenta is a better base than pasta. I cooked the polenta with vegetable broth instead of water to add still more flavor. Served with sauteed and steamed broccolini, the meal was quite tasty and a suitable pairing for the wine.

As promised, here is the full list of blog posts on this topic:

• Deanna of Wineivore talks about Alta Langa: Italy’s Sparkling Wine from Piedmont.
• Jennifer of Vino Travels shares A Classic Tuscan Pairing: Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico Riserva with Ribollita.
• Wendy of A Day in the Life on the Farm asks A Favorite Italian Wine? How do I begin to choose?
• Linda My Full Wine Glass suggests we Follow the orange thread: Biodynamic Pecorino from Abruzzo.
• Camilla of Culinary Cam writes about Two of My Favorite Things: Cucina Povera and a Bottle with My Name on It