As a wine specialist and outdoor enthusiast, I was pleased to read about the Sonoma County vintners who are committed to sustainable viticulture and winemaking.
A story published yesterday (May 30) in the Toronto Star featured a few of these trailblazers. The lead was about Lou Preston, vintner at Preston of Dry Creek in Sonoma County. He actually ripped out blocks of grapes and now runs a diversified, organic farm that produces 8,000 cases of wine annually. That’s down from the 30,000 cases he used to produce “at the height of the insanity.” His wines include Zinfandel, Sauvignon Blanc, Barbera (an Italian variety from the Piedmont region), Syrah and Viognier. Also available at his organic farm are other homegrown products, such as olive oils and bread.
In her article, Kristin Kent also points out several other Sonoma vintners taking steps to become sustainable. At Benziger Family Winery, for example, you can find an insectary to reduce harmful pests. The owners also use recycled water to clean barrels, and they treat soils with herbal teas. Other wineries are planting diverse crops in the vineyard, and using Eco-friendly packing and recycled glass.
A third of Sonoma’s 1,800 growers are now certified sustainable. Though voluntary, the Sonoma County Winegrowers have committed to becoming the first 100 percent sustainable wine region in the nation by 2019. Just this month (May 2015), the Sonoma County Winegrape Commission’s Board of Directors committed up to $10,000 in grant funding to help support grower’s sustainability certification.
Sustainability is no easy feat in an industry that a.) uses a ton of water, not only to irrigate, though irrigation is a must in some parts of the world, but mainly to keep cellars scrupulously clean and sanitary, and b.) to ward off pests ranging from harmful insects in a variety of colors and stripes to crop-destroying fungal diseases.
On the humid East Coast, where I live, these challenges are especially vexing. Responsible vintners use chemicals only when they are absolutely necessary, a practice called “Integrated Pest Management.” But make no mistake about it, a spraying schedule can be absolutely necessary in the East and being proactive is imperative as well.
Still, if Sonoma can move toward a sustainable future, might we as well? I’ll be asking this question of industry insiders for future posts.
And then there’s the wine, of course. How does the wine from sustainably grown grapes compare to more conventionally produced wine? Finally, how does sustainability affect price? Can vintners stay in business if they practice sustainable agriculture? What’s the cost?
I know this much: true commitment to diversified farming is accepting a caretaker role for this earth. It’s more than adopting a marketing ploy, such as a goat or a pig on your label, because you have a clever name or you’re trying to create a rural-looking brand.
Ultimately, consumers will vote with their palates and their pocketbooks. How about you? Are you willing to add sustainably produced wine to your wine rack? I’ll be making a concerted effort to do so. I’ll let you know what I find!