A North Macedonian blend: Vranec and Plavec (#WinePW)

Perhaps you’re flummoxed by the complexity and variety of French wines. Or maybe you haven’t heard of every indigenous Italian grape.

Sure. That’s understandable. The world of wine is vast.

But chances are, if you’re reading this post, you can rattle off the classic European wine-exporting countries. France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, Germany. Right? Bet you can list some grapes or place names, too.

Now let’s travel (virtually) to a southeast European country that, for cultural and political reasons, rarely shares the same spotlight. Let’s go to the Republic of North Macedonia and open a 2015 Tikveš Bela Voda 50-50 dry red blend of two little-known wine grapes – Vranec and Plavec.

Please join me and other Wine Pairing Weekend bloggers this Saturday, Jan. 11, beginning at 11 am ET, as we journey in search of “godforsaken grapes.” Simply follow the #WinePW hashtag. The theme for this month’s chat is based on Jason Wilson’s book, Godforsaken Grapes: A Slightly Tipsy Journey Through the World of Strange, Obscure, and Underappreciated Wine.

Vranec and Plavec (known as “Plavac Mali” in Croatia, where it originates) don’t appear among the 101 “godforsaken” varieties listed in the book’s appendix. But the author notes there are 1,368 known grape varieties. The Bela Voda was my introduction to these two grapes. How about you? Have you tried them yet?

Where is Republic of North Macedonia?
Never heard of this country? You’re excused. The Republic of North Macedonia raised its banner less than a year ago.

Formerly a part of Yugoslavia, this landlocked Balkan country declared independence in September 1991 under the name “Republic of Macedonia.” After that, a three-decade dispute ensued with neighboring Greece over the name. “Macedonia” is long associated with Alexander the Great. Greek leaders apparently feared the new country might encroach on its territory.

The naming issue was finally resolved in February 2019, when the two countries agreed to the new name, and Republic of North Macedonia became eligible to realize its long-held dream of joining NATO.

Both Republic of North Macedonia and the Greek province of Macedonia produce wine and have done so for centuries. But in the 20^th century, when wine producers globally began to revamp their technological processes, countries in the former Soviet bloc lacked investment and lagged behind. Now that situation gradually is being remedied.

What’s special about the wine region?
Tikveš (pronounced “Tirvesh”) is a large hilly plain located in the central Republic of North Macedonia and enclosed by mountain highlands on three sides. These slopes provide protection from the cold northern winds. The Vardar River cuts the valley into western and eastern sections. The valley’s eastern section is arid and sparsely populated, while the western section is fertile and much more densely populated. This area is also rich in forests, minerals, and pastureland. It’s been described as an “oasis” because of its vineyards and orchards.

Of particular interest to wine aficionados, the Tikveš wine subregion is situated in the same latitude band as Tuscany in Italy, Bordeaux in France, and the Napa Valley in the U.S. Of course, many other factors go into growing the grapes and producing the iconic wines of these famous regions. Still, Tikveš has some special things going for it.

North Macedonia is a place where continental and Mediterranean climates meet. In the southern part of the Tikveš wine region, where Domaine Bela Voda is located, the Mediterranean climate prevails. Bela Voda enjoys 240 days of sunshine. Long, hot summers and the area’s clay-soil slopes produce ideal growing conditions for Vranec and Plavec. Vines soak up the sun during the day and radiate warmth during the cool nights.

Texan investors transform winery
Tikveš winery is big, big, big!

The 130-year-old winery boasts of being the oldest and largest in southeast Europe. In 2003, it was acquired by the M6 Investment group, a Texas-based capital management company that has sunk more than $30 million into the latest technology.

More than 50 different wines are produced at multiple Tikveš locations in Macedonia and in Côtes du Rhône in France. The winery also produces sparkling wine and several types of spirits. Annual sales top $15 million.

Serbian-born head winemaker Marko Stojaković manages a team of 12 oenologists who regularly travel abroad to learn new techniques.

Yet, despite its size, the company website boldly notes, “… We pick every grape on our vineyards by hand. Grape by grape.”

Godforsaken grapes – or are they?
Plavec (Plavec Mali or Plavac Mali) has been gaining some popularity among wine consumers. In North Macedonia, this fresh and tart, strongly colored grape is commonly blended with Vranec in the production of quality red wines. The warm climate, especially the long and warm autumns, suits late-harvested Plavec.

Vranec is widespread in North Macedonia. Evidence suggests Vranec has been planted in the mountainous landscape of Montenegro since the Middle Ages. The name translates roughly as “strong black,” an indication of the wine’s character. Traditionally prized as a table grape, vigorous and high-yielding Vranec is also sensitive to frost and botrytis. The berries’ high sugar content makes for wines with relatively high alcohol.

Vranec is often mistaken for Primitivo, the southern Italian grape transplanted and known in California as Zinfandel. DNA researchers suggest that one is the parent of the other.

Time to pour the wine
2015 Tikveš Bela Voda red blend – 50% Vranec and 50% Plavec
A shout-out goes to Pat in the Pennsylvania wine store near me. Pat gets it when I explain what our group of intrepid bloggers are tackling next. He eagerly snatched off the shelves several unusual German, French, and Spanish wines – and this North Macedonian Bela Voda –as possibilities for this month’s chat. Some of these wines I’ll be opening for future posts.

My tasting notes: The wine pours an opaque deep ruby in the glass with a purplish rim. Aromas of blackberry and leather waft out of the glass. On the palate, I get fig and boysenberry upfront, with vanilla and a touch of cloves and cocoa on a longish (not a technical word!) finish. Despite high alcohol, this fruity wine is not jammy – it is well balanced by medium+ acidity and highly structured. The wine is aged in new French oak for 15 months and worthy of cellaring to smooth out the tannins and bring out the vanilla and spice. Alcohol: 15%. Price: $21.99.

And what about the pairing?
At first, the old adage, “what grows together, goes together,” was my mantra. Of course, the recipe needed to be in my wheelhouse (translate as “easy”).

Macedonian cuisine mentions stuffed peppers, an old standby and family favorite. Who ate stuffed peppers as a kid? Go ahead, raise your hand. It’s a staple of many different cultural traditions.

The spouse and I were surprised at how amicable a pairing the peppers were with this bold red blend – especially considering I chose lean ground turkey for the filling. I chalk up the success to the wine’s medium+ acidity.

Then I thought, OK, let’s get gamey. The producer recommends venison or wild boar. I found bison steaks at the local grocery store. The American bison seemed a fitting match for this Texan investors’ North Macedonian wine enterprise. Check out the recipe for details on how I cooked the bison, but please note that it was covered in a red wine and fig-balsamic sauce – and mushrooms. Yummy and perhaps better suited to the Bela Voda? The peppers were good, too.

Please check out these other excellent posts and join us Saturday, Jan. 11, at 11 am ET, for a fun chat about lots of godforsaken grapes!

• A North Macedonian Blend: Vranec and Plavec by My Full Wine Glass
• An Ode to Godforsaken Grapes on Somm’s Table
• An Unlikely Match: A Thai Favorite + A Qvevri-Aged Wine from the Republic of Georgia by Culinary Adventures with Camilla
• Cesanese, Schioppettino and More Interesting Wine to Try by Cooking Chat
• Falanghina and Lagrein from California? Of course! by ENOFYLZ Wine Blog
• Godforsaken Grapes: The Book and Thoughts about Wine by Our Good Life
• Godforsaken Grapes: The Book, The Wine, The Pairing by A Day in the Life on the Farm
• Pairing Blaufrankisch from Austria with Dark Soya MarinatedChicken Legs by Chinese Food and Wine Pairings
• Pair Petit Manseng with Asian Food by Asian Test Kitchen
• Pairing the Unpairable: Traditional Turkish Manti and Yogurt with Öküzgözü Rosé by The Quirky Cork
• Saperavi is Super with Khachapuri by Dracaena Wines
• Southwest France: A Pool of Grape Diversity by L’Occasion
• Tasting & Pairing Tannat – #WinePW Exploration of Godforsaken Grapes by The Corkscrew Concierge
• To Try in 2020: Paso Whites– Unexpected Grapes In anUnexpected Region by Wine Predator
• The Forgotten Grapes of Calabria: Gaglioppo of Ceraudo with Salsiccia by Vino Travels
• White Port: A Blend of Grape Varieties Unknown to Many by Grape Experiences