Back to the Jura (virtually), for Crémant this time around (#Winophiles)

Maybe the Jura wine region of eastern France appeals to me because it’s remote. Located in a narrow valley between Burgundy and Switzerland, the region has developed its own winemaking practices in isolation from outside influences.

Or maybe the threat of spring and autumn frosts explains why Jura winemaking is so thrilling to imagine. The main grape-growing area lies in the foothills of the Jura Mountains to the west, at an average altitude of 1,000 feet. The majority of vines are planted on south-facing slopes to take advantage of the sunshine and trained high off the ground (using the Guyot system).

Or maybe I’m so pleased to be back in the Jura for the next French Winophiles event because I longed for Comté (pictured above), a tangy and nutty regional cheese that pairs hand-in-glove with this region’s wines.

If reading this in time, you’re invited to join us for the Twitter chat about Jura wines on Saturday 10/17, starting at 8 am PT/11 am ET. Simply follow the #Winophiles hashtag.

Reviewing Past Footsteps

This journey began a year ago, when the Winophiles set a course to explore some of the lesser-known grapes of France. We could go anywhere in the country for this event. I somehow ended up in Jura, the home of the native Poulsard, Trousseau, and Savagnin grapes, as well as plenty of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

In Part I of this wine geekery, I tasted an Arbois red blend from the Jura. Of Jura’s five AOCs, or subregions, Arbois is the most prolific – for reds, whites, and rosés. About 70 percent of Jura’s red wines are produced under the Arbois name. A traditional Arbois blend consists of Poulsard, Trousseau, and Pinot Noir. If, like me, you love, love, love light-bodied, cold-climate reds with zingy high acidity, Arbois is the wine for you. The Arbois I opened had bright, cherry-candy aromas with a hint of strawberry and a lip-smacking palate of sour cherry candy, finishing on an earthy fennel note.

In Part II, I returned to the Jura – virtually, bien sûr – to explore Vin Jaune (yellow wine), a sherry-like, golden wine made from the Savagnin grape in an oxidative winemaking process known as sous voile (“under the veil”). The wine is aged for two to three years in a barrel that is not topped off. A layer of yeast, similar to Sherry’s flor, appears on the surface and partially protects the wine from further oxidation. The Vin Jaune had aromas of honey, toasted walnuts, and burnt apple, and a dry, buttery palate with a hint of bitter almond. Complex, savory flavors – suggestive of spicy chicken broth liberally seasoned with paprika – unveil themselves slowly. Yup, it’s not for everybody, but it’s unique!

The Journey Continues

For the return trip to Jura, I was determined to try a Crémant.

Sparkling wine has been made in this region since the 18^th century. The Crémant du Jura production area is identical to that of Côtes du Jura, its counterpart for still wines, and includes 105 communes covering a distance of about 50 miles from north to south.

Roughly one in four bottles of wine from the Jura is sparkling. They’re made in the Méthode Traditionelle, same as Champagne, and must have a minimum of 50% Chardonnay.

Domaine Pêcheur began producing wine in 1976. Starting out with just a couple of acres, Christian and Patricia Pêcheur now own 20 acres of vineyards on the hillside slopes of Jura. Vines are 35 to 50 years old. Grapes for the Crémant and still white wines are planted in rocky, pebbly soil rich in dolomite, a type of limestone. Vineyards are farmed organically – pesticides and herbicides are not used – but the domaine is not certified organic. Grapes are hand-harvested. 

The Wine – NV Domaine Pêcheur Crémant du Jura AOC
100% Chardonnay

Whole-cluster grapes are fermented in stainless steel using indigenous yeasts. The juice is pumped over and malolactic fermentation (converting harsh malic to soft lactic acid) occurs in the tank. Finished wine is aged in oak for a minimum of 24 months and in the bottle, on their lees (spent yeast cells), for three to six months.

My tasting notes: Yellow in color. The nose is rich in Honeycrisp apple aroma, like standing in a room of freshly picked, cut-open apples. On the palate, I get Granny Smith apples upfront with lemon and lime entering on the mid-palate and mineral notes. Small perlage. Dry, crisp, and medium-bodied. Buttery mouthfeel but not bready like Champagne or Cava. Medium acidity. Medium+ finish. Alcohol: 11.5%. Price: $28.  

Suggested pairing: As expected, Comté cheese was a surefire winner with this crisp, dry Crémant. Gruyere, cheddar, or any flavorful, mild cheese would fare well, too, as would anything made with cheese – grilled cheese sandwiches, for example, a fall favorite of ours. Actually, this juicy Jura bubbly hummed along happily with everything it was offered, especially my daughter’s savory Pasta with Etruscan Sauce, made with sun-dried tomatoes, black olives, parsley, and garlic, and served alongside mild chicken sausage. The wine also nodded in agreement to the slightly sweet, slivered apple and kale salad. Yum!

Does the Jura entice you? Wink Lorch has written extensively this region. Check out her site and also click on the following links:

• Camilla from Culinary Adventures with Camilla pairs Seafood B’Stilla + Domaine Rolet Arbois Trousseau 2012.
• Pinny from Chinese Food and Wine Pairings is Sipping Tissot-Marie Crémant Du Jura and Snacking Fried Pork Skin.
• Linda from My Full Wine Glass heads Back to the Jura (Virtually), for Crémant This Time Around.
• Robin from Crushed Grape Chronicles is Channeling the Jura for a rooftop getaway with a bottle of Savagnin and Friends.
• Payal from Keep the Peas shares Sherry? No, Jura.
• Wendy from A Day in the Life on the Farm serves up Bourride Served with a Chardonnay from Jura.
• Nicole from Somm’s Table is posting two articles – Jurassic 5: An Intro to the Jura and Its Main Grapes and Cooking to the Wine: Two Savagnins from Domaine Daniel Dugois with Coquilles St. Jacques.
• Christy from Confessions of a Culinary Diva discusses Jurain the Afternoon.
• Terri of Our Good Life pours Sparkling Jura for Celebratory Moments.
• Gwendolyn of Wine Predator is Exploring Flavors of Jura Food and Wine Take Two: Trousseauand Melon.
• Susannah of Avvinare is Discovering Delights From Jura Region.
• And, finally, host David from Cooking Chat shares Slow Cooker BBQ Chicken Thighs with Jura Wine.