Benanti – Capturing the soul of Mount Etna wine (#Italian FWT)

Are volcanic soils better than others for growing wine grapes?

Maybe you’ve heard or read they are. Not necessarily, but some volcanic soils are definitely good for vines and wines. Here’s why:

• Volcanic soils are porous. High draining capacity allows vines to dig deep for nutrients while naturally controlling vigor and reducing yields.

• Volcanic soils are rich in minerals, especially magnesium, potassium and iron depending on the site. Although there is no scientific evidence of a direct correlation between mineral composition and a wine’s profile, the soil seems to impart something special.

• Volcanic soils naturally defend against Phylloxera, the pest that destroyed much of Europe’s vineyards in the late 19^th century.

After tasting a delicious Etna bianco (white) last year, I was intent on going rosso (red) for the Italian Food, Wine and Travel (#ItalianFWT) chat about volcanic wines on Twitter this Saturday, Oct. 3, starting at 8 am PT/11 am ET. If reading this post in time, you’re invited to join us by following the hashtag.

Background

Etna is an Italian wine Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) that covers the slopes of Mount Etna, the 10,920-foot active volcano that dominates the northeastern corner of Sicily. The DOC area, semi-circular in shape, extends from north to southwest in a clockwise direction, with an altitude of up to 3,500 feet above sea level.

Etna Rosso is the most commonly produced form of Etna wine. A classic Etna Rosso is made from two native grapes – mostly Nerello Mascalese, with a small (up to 20%) amount of Nerello Cappuccio. These two grapes are actually mutations of a single variety and often grow side by side in the volcanic soils around Mount Etna and elsewhere in Sicily.

Benanti is a long-established Sicilian family with Bolognese roots. The Sicilian branch of the family was started in 1734 by an ancestor with a noble title. At the end of the 19^th century, a descendant, Giuseppe Benanti, began producing wine from local Etna grapes grown on one of his father’s old farms on the slopes of Mount Etna.

So why does Benanti capture the soul of Mount Etna wine? Here are some reasons for this claim:

1. Benanti is the only winery with vineyards on every slope of the Etna DOC area. Vines are between 12 and 100 years old.
2. In 1988, the Benanti family began an extensive and selective study of the Etnean soils. They investigated particular clones of native vines and new techniques for reproducing ancient aromas.
3. In 2002, Benanti became the first producer of a traditional-method sparkling wine from Etna made exclusively from Carricante grapes.
4. Eight years later, in 2010, Benanti completed a comprehensive five-year experiment aimed at selecting indigenous Etna yeasts in the vineyard and cellar. This research led to the isolation and propagation of four proprietary (patented) yeast strains.

Sources: Benanti; Reverse Wine Snob; Wine.com; Wine-searcher.com; Wine Spectator

The wine – 2017 Benanti Etna Rosso DOC
80% Nerello Mascalese, 20% Nerello Cappuccio

Grapes for this rosso were selected from vineyards located on the north, southeast, and southwest slopes of Mount Etna. Soils are sandy, volcanic, and rich in minerals. Vines range in age from 10 to 60 years old. Vineyards vary in elevation from about 1,500 to almost 3,000 feet high. Terrain ranges from high hill to mountain, with a humid and rainy cool season, high winds, and a significant diurnal range of temperature.

Grapes are harvested by hand in October and de-stemmed. The two varieties are vinified separately. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel vats at a controlled temperature, with medium-length maceration, with the aid of Benanti’s own indigenous yeast. Nerello Cappuccio ages only in stainless steel. About 80% of the Nerello Mascalese ages in stainless steel, while the remaining 20% spends time in second-year French oak barriques for 8-10 months. After bottling, the wine stays in the bottle for 2-3 months.

My tasting notes: Pale ruby red in color. A subtle nose of raspberry and strawberry aromas with a whiff of rose petals. On the palate, tangy sour cherry and spice upfront, followed by mineral and saline notes and a long, herby and peppery finish. Light-bodied. Supple tannins. Both elegant and earthy at the same time. Alcohol: 13.5%. Price: $22.

Suggested pairing: I went with the producer’s recommendation and paired this lively wine with pappardelle in a rosemary mushroom ragu. My first time cooking pappardelle and must say these wide pasta noodles live up to their reputation for soaking up sauce. Yum! This hearty dish was a perfect match for the light body and herby, peppery notes of this Etna Rosso. Wine was compatible with the antipasto, too. (Note: I substituted cremini mushrooms for the portobellos and they worked just fine.)

What are all the #ItalianFWT bloggers digging up in the volcanic soil? Check out the posts below and join us Saturday 10/3.

• Camilla at the Culinary Adventures with Camilla features A Single-Varietal Carricante, an Etna Exclusive, & Lapsang Souchong-Braised Duck Legs.
• Wendy at A Day in the Life on the Farm declares Grapes Grown in Volcanic Soil Produce a HOT Wine!!!
• Gwendolyn of Wine Predator has you Meet Mt Etna’s Volcanic Wines: Sicily’s Tenuta Monte Gorna and Tenuta di Fessina with Pairings.
• Lynn at Savor the Harvest writes about Volcanic Wine in the Veneto.
• Terri at Our Good Life shares Ashes to Ashes: Volcanic Wine and Sicilian Lentil Soup.
• Robin at Crushed Grape Chronicles offers Mount Etna – The Awesome Power of Active Volcanos, and Yes, Red Wine with Fish.
• Linda at My Full Wine Glass discusses the wines of Benanti – Capturing the Soul of Mount Etna Wine.
• Susannah at Avvinare is Exploring the Colli Berici in the Veneto.
• Cindy at Grape Experiences shares Personality, Elegance, Value: Tenuta Tascante Ghiaia Nera 2017 from Etna DOC.
• Nicole at Somm’s Table is Exploring Etna with Tenuta di Fessina
• Jen, our host, at Vino Travels posts Fried Eggplant Topped with Fresh Tomatoes and Ricotta Paired with I Custodi Etna Rosso.