Encore: Atwater Riesling rounds out NY Finger Lakes samples (#WinePW)

When tasting through a flight of wines, the standard advice is to save the sweetest for last. So to me, there was a bit of karma in receiving a semi-sweet Atwater Riesling as the last wine for this month’s Wine Pairing Weekend (#WinePW) event on Finger Lakes wines.

The “medium sweet” 2015 Atwater Riesling arrived at my new home after my Rieslings post had already gone live. No worries. Riesling has many expressions, and the Atwater wine was a welcome addition to the others we sampled for this event.

For one thing, the 80-acre, family-owned Atwater winery is located in the so-called “banana belt” on the southeastern slope of Seneca Lake. Their site enjoys a comparatively warm microclimate in the otherwise cool Finger Lakes region. This difference plays itself out in the tropical and stone fruit notes present in the Atwater Riesling.

(Please note that while the wine for this post was provided, opinions are my own.)

First, a bit of history (from the Atwater website)

Atwater’s vineyards date back to the early 1900s when native varieties like Catawba and Concord dominated the region. In 1970, it was purchased by Minnesota newspaperman and wine entrepreneur Bill Moffett, creator of Vineyard & Winery Management Magazine as well as several prestigious commercial wine competitions and trade shows. He began planting French-American hybrids and vinifera (European) wine grapes on the farm.

After the New York Farm Winery Act of 1976 opened opportunities for grape growers to start wineries, the estate changed hands several times. Ed and Joanne Grow bought the farm in early 1980 and opened Rolling Vineyards. They continued to expand the grapes grown onsite to include Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Vidal Blanc.

Although, Rolling Vineyards closed in 1991, the vineyards were still cultivated and the grapes contracted out to other wineries in the region. In 1995, the Rolling Vineyards tasting room was rented to Swedish Hill Vineyards to use as a tasting room for their sparkling wine. Local entrepreneur Ted Marks purchased the vineyards in 1999 and established Atwater in September of 2000. The winery produces a variety of red, white, rosé, and sparkling wines in a range of styles from dry to sweet.

Atwater Winery is now open for outdoor service only. Review their visit page for details. Photo Credit: Stu Gallagher.

The wine – 2015 Atwater Estate Vineyards Riesling
84% Riesling, 16% Vignoles

Geeky stuff: February 2015 went on the record as the coldest in central New York State. May through July were humid with torrential downpours. As has been the case the last few years, a warm and sunny September made this wine grape harvest one of the best in the producer’s recent memory. Above-average temperatures and dry conditions allowed the grapes to ripen fully.

Riesling grapes were harvested at average 20.8 degrees Brix sugar level from three vineyard blocks and co-fermented in stainless steel tanks with commercial yeast. Vignoles, a hybrid grape harvested at a higher 27.2 degrees Brix, was added to the tank later. Residual sugar: 2.8%. Acid: 3.27 pH.

My tasting notes: Straw in color. Aromas of apricot, honey and slight petrol. On the palate, I get a burst of stone fruit – apricot, nectarine, Granny Smith apple – as well as a buttery blend of honey, lemon, pineapple, and a hint of lime. Medium acidity. Medium finish. Alcohol: 11.5%. Price: $16.

Easy pairings while getting settled

After moving across the country, I’m still getting my household set up and my oven operational. But I wanted to open this Riesling immediately and post for this month’s theme. (Didn’t wait for space on my countertop or table to take a decent photo.) I went with a reliable standby – poached salmon and a side of broccoli. The pairing was OK, but the Riesling didn’t have a chance to show off its full potential.

With the leftover salmon, I moved to another easy and favorite dish: Linguine dressed in a blend of olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, basil, and with a sprinkle of red pepper. Topped with the salmon, this pairing was spot on. The semi-sweet Riesling soothed and added balance to the garlic and red chili pepper in the dressing.

Finally, the spouse and I finished off the last drops of the Atwater Riesling with yet another go-to meal: turkey chili and rice. As expected, the sweetness in the Riesling tempered and counter-balanced the medium-hot chili.

I bet this Riesling would also work as a dessert accompaniment. Next time!

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