It’s #MerlotMe month. Where’s the umami? (#WinePW)

Starting lineup for today’s game.

Here it is, #MerlotMe month – my first as a blogger – and I’m facing a challenge from the get-go.

I actually prefer a smooth-talking, plum and mocha-tasting Merlot to its more tannic blending partner, the highly prized Cabernet Sauvignon. The problem is I rarely cook or eat red meat. So what can I pair that will have enough heft for #MerlotMe Wine Pairing Weekend (#WinePW) on Saturday, Oct. 12?

Thanks to generous participating wineries, I have received seven wines as samples for this monthlong celebration of Merlot. OK, lots to pair. Game on!

Please note that while the wines for this post were provided, opinions are my own.

As usual, fellow bloggers serve as my inspiration. Jeff at foodwineclick, for example, says burgers are his favorite Merlot pairing. Martin at Enofylz is exploring meatless meals for #MerlotMe month.

I decide to experiment with one of the key ingredients to an amiable red wine pairing: umami.

Mushrooms give food a savory taste. Pexels photo by Irina Iriser

What is umami?

Consulting that ubiquitous source of digital information, Wikipedia, I find this description:

“Umami (/uːˈmɑːmi/, from Japanese: うま味 [ɯmami]) or savory taste is one of the five basic tastes (together with sweetness, sourness, bitterness, and saltiness). It has been described as savory and is characteristic of broths and cooked meats… Foods that have a strong umami flavor include broths, gravies, soups, shellfish, fish and fish sauces, tomatoes, mushrooms, hydrolysed vegetable protein, meat extract, yeast extract, cheeses, soy sauce and human breast milk.”

To that list I would add grilled or roasted vegetables, fermented foods and parmesan cheese.

The trick to pairing a vegetarian dish with red wine, according to Wine Folly, is finding ingredients with enough protein, fat and umami.

Because red wines are fermented on their skins and seeds to extract color, they retain the mouth-drying chemical compounds known as tannins. Protein and fat –in meat and cheese, typically – bind with the tannins and help to smooth out the mouthfeel. Aging certain red wines before opening them also will break down tannins. Or you can substitute other protein, such as tofu, quinoa and beans, for the meat, and add fats from oils and nuts.

After making sure you have enough protein and fat – and salt to season and tenderize – adding ingredients rich in umami will give your meal that savory heft needed for a red wine pairing.

Five days – five Merlot wines

It was fun, fun, fun to open this handful of Merlot samples and pair them with meals. Some worked! Some worked splendidly, in fact. Next time, I’ll move onto the two remaining Merlot wines I received for #MerlotMe month.

Day 1: 2018 Casillero del Diablo Reserva Merlot and vegetarian pizza

  • Tasting notes: Casillero del Diablo is a value-led brand from the portfolio of Concha y Toro, the largest wine producer in Latin America. Grapes are grown in the warm, dry Rapel Valley region of Chile’s Central Valley. Ruby in color with a smoky nose and palate. Slight sour note on the palate and a medium+ finish hinting of minty eucalyptus. Medium acidity. Alcohol: 13.5%. Average price on wine-searcher.com: $10
  • Pairing notes: This vegetarian pizza is chock full of umami, from the reconstituted porcini mushrooms to the roasted red peppers and grated parmesan cheese. Feta cheese adds protein, fat and salt. A solid match to the smoky Casillero del Diablo.

Day 2: 2018 Rutherford Hill Rosé of Merlot and chicken fried rice

  • Tasting notes: A Terlato family winery, the Rutherford Hill estate in Napa Valley, California, was established in 1972 and was one of the first in the region to produce Merlot-dominant wines. Today, the 10-acre, sustainably farmed, hillside vineyard is known for its Merlot in a region famous for Cabernet Sauvignon. Pink in color. A nose of ripe nectarine gives way to tangy grapefruit and lime notes on the palate. Medium+ acidity. Medium+ finish. Alcohol: 13.6%. Average price on wine-searcher.com: $34
  • Pairing notes: The proof, as they say, is in the pairing. First, I opened the Rutherford Hill Merlot to enjoy with my chicken fried rice. “Oh, no,” said the Merlot, “this meal is too light for me.” I tucked it back in the fridge and took out the Rutherford Hill Rosé of Merlot instead. Ah, that’s better.

Day 3: 2015 Rutherford Hill Merlot and Chicken Veronique

  • Tasting notes: Deep ruby in color with a purplish rim. Dark berry and blueberry dominate the nose. Cocoa, coffee and vanilla rule the medium+ finish. Medium+ acidity. Smooth, textured and mouth-coating tannins. Alcohol: 14.5%. Average price on wine-searcher.com: $23
  • Pairing notes: Florence’s Chicken Veronique has been a crowd pleaser at our place for a long time. I suspected it would have the umami (e.g., mushrooms, savory sauce) to stand up to the Rutherford Hill Merlot, and it does.

Day 4: 2017 Bonterra Merlot and leftover chicken with pasta

  • Tasting notes: I truly appreciate the organic and Biodynamic farming methods that are the hallmark of this large producer from Mendocino County, California. This Merlot is made from certified organic grapes. The winemaker blended small amounts of Petite Sirah and Malbec into the fermented and blended Merlot lots. The wine was aged for 12 months using a combination of French and American oak of which 45% was new. Ruby in color. Fruity nose full of dark berries and plum. On the palate, I get an earthy smokiness hinting of chocolate. Medium acidity. Medium tannins. Medium+ finish. Alcohol: 14.1%. Price: $16.
  • Pairing notes: Who doesn’t love leftovers, right? Cut-up Chicken Veronique with mushrooms, pasta and tomato sauce was perfect with the easygoing and fruity Bonterra Merlot. Just add a side salad.

Day 5: 2017 Chelsea Goldschmidt Merlot and grilled turkey veggie burgers

  • Tasting notes: Yolyn and Nick Goldschmidt moved to Healdsburg, California, in 1990, for Nick to become the winemaker at Simi Winery. The couple established their own wine label in 1999. Their winery is most notable for single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon wines from Alexander Valley and Napa Valley. Grapes for this wine, which is named for the couple’s eldest daughter, are grown in Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County. Ruby in color. Plenty of dark berries and plum on the nose. A lighter body and higher acidity than the other Merlots I opened. Hint of minty eucalyptus on a medium finish. Slightly tannic, but food friendly. Alcohol: 14.5%. Average price on wine-searcher.com: $20
  • Pairing notes: For this grouping, I definitely saved the best for last – unknowingly, I might add. These grilled veggie turkey burgers topped with red onion, tomato slices, roasted red peppers and sautéed mushrooms were amazing with the Goldschmidt Merlot. Tamed those tannins into submission! I served the burgers on oiled and grilled buns. Umami? You got it! Nutritious, too. Jeff, you’re right about the burgers!

Wow! What a treasure trove of #MerlotMe posts. Take a look! Then join us Saturday, Oct. 12, starting at 11 am ET for a #WinePW chat. Simply follow the hashtags!

9 thoughts on “It’s #MerlotMe month. Where’s the umami? (#WinePW)”

  1. I’m replying here on Cam’s comment because I don’t see where I can leave a comment for you. I think your pairings are lovely and I am especially intrigued by the Merlot Rose. I have never tried one and am going to be on the lookout for it.

  2. A good exploration of what it takes to make a good Merlot pairing, without the meat! Will have to keep Merlot in mind for veggie burgers, trying to work them in more here.

  3. I love how you experienced these wines over the course of a week. I suppose you could keep going and round out the MONTH!?

    Those mushrooms in the basket are just heaven. Wow.

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