Keeping it simple with #pureChablis (#winophiles)

Chardonnay is that wine that people most love to hate. Have you noticed? Maybe because there’s so much of it, or because commercially produced Chardonnay has given the grape a bad rep. The grape is adaptable to a variety of lands and climates, and in the cellar, Chardonnay becomes a blank slate for winemaking styles, from oaked to unoaked, extended skin contact, and sparkling. The finished wine can be tropical and rounded or steely and minerally.  

But Chablis is something different – it’s Chardonnay in its purest form, made from grapes grown in the cool, semi-continental climate of northern Burgundy (actually closer to Champagne than to the rest of Burgundy) on unique, clay-limestone soils and fermented in steel tanks. Fruity, bone dry, and achingly crisp, Chablis wines are unlike their southern Burgundy brethren for whom oak aging is the norm and unlike almost any other Chardonnay you’ve ever tasted.

Keeping it simple is the name of the game for Chablis. Chardonnay is the only grape variety allowed in the four Chablis Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) subregions. From bottom to top, these four levels are Petit (“Little”) Chablis, Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru (40 climats or vineyard sites), and Chablis Grand Cru (seven sites). Most growers make wines in two or three of these categories.

On Saturday 5/15, the French Winophiles are exploring #pureChablis and you’re invited to join us by following the #Winophiles hashtag on Twitter, starting at 8 am PT/11 am ET. Maybe you’ve tasted pure Chablis or Chablis-like wine. Hope you’ll share your thoughts.

Key points

• Chablis wines are solely dry whites.
• Vineyards cover hillsides along the Serein river valley surrounding the small village of Chablis, about 100 miles north of Dijon. After the 19^th century phylloxera epidemic and then two world wars ravaged France, Chablis vines covered less than 1,500 acres of land. Today, about 14,300 of the total 16,800 acres of designated land are planted.
• The village of Chablis dates back to Roman times, but historians believe there were already vines on the land in the time of the Gauls. The Chablis vineyards were created in the 12th century by the monks of St Martin of Tours and Pontigny.
• Chablis, Premier Cru, and Grand Cru vineyards are planted in ancient soil called Kimmeridgian, a 180-million-year-old geologic formation of clay and limestone containing fossilized sea creatures. This soil type extends from the village of Kimmeridge in southern England through Champagne to Chablis, producing austere wines known for their minerality and flinty character.
• Petit Chablis vines are planted on a different type of chalk soil, called Portlandian, that also originates in southern England. Less rich in fossils and more recent, geologically speaking, Portlandian is hard, brown limestone or sometimes a silty and sandy type of soil.
• Sparkling wine from Chablis is labeled Crémant de Bourgogne.

Sources: Chablis Wines, Wine Magazine, Wine Searcher, Wine.com

Tasting pure Chablis

What pure pleasure it was to receive pure Chablis samples, thanks to Chablis Wines! I put together a few simple pairings but kept the focus on the wines. (Please note that while the wines for this post were provided, opinions are my own.)

2019 Jean-Marc Brocard Sainte Claire Vieilles Vignes Chablis AOC
Jean-Marc Brocard is one of the few Chablis producers to use all four of the region’s appellations. From 2.5 acres gifted to him and his wife in 1972, Brocard expanded his holdings and now owns approximately 200 acres of vines. The family-owned company exports to nearly 50 countries.

Since 1995, the estate has been operated by the Brocards’ son, Julien, who has been instrumental in improving the vineyards. Brocard is one of the first organic wine producers in all of Burgundy. About 148 acres have been certified organic and almost 100 acres biodynamic. Brocard’s Vieilles Vignes (“old vines”) were planted around 70 years ago. Their roots reach more than 82 feet into Kimmeridgian soil.

Grapes grown on 30-year-old vines. Wine was fermented using native yeasts in temperature-controlled tanks, with complete malolactic fermentation (conversion of harsh malic to soft lactic acid). Matured on lees in stainless-steel tanks for 12 months.

• My tasting notes: Bright gold in color. Nose shows green apple, wet stone, and white blossoms. Steely palate of grapefruit pith and lemon. Most austere of the three samples. High acidity. Medium+ finish. Alcohol: 14.5%. Average price (wine-searcher): $24.
• The pairing: I seared scallops in butter and oil with a drop of wine and served with a kale/red quinoa salad consisting of olive oil, lemon, minced garlic, chopped walnuts, raisins, feta cheese, red pepper flakes, and sea salt. For appetizers, the spouse and I had herbed goat cheese spread on crackers and topped with smoked salmon and capers. Scallops needed a squeeze of lemon to match the wine’s high acidity. Goat cheese and feta cheese in the side dishes balanced the wine beautifully.

2019 Domaine De La Cornasse Chablis AOC
Under the tutelage of their winemaker father, Alain Geoffroy, daughters Sylvie, Nathalie and Aurelie launched Domaine de la Cornasse to appeal to a new generation of Chablis drinkers. Alain Geoffroy’s 123.5-acre estate has been in the family since 1850. Grapes for this wine are grown on vines 20 to 30 years old.

• My tasting notes: Pale gold in color. Aromas of green apple, pear, and a touch of anise. Mineral notes on the palate with lemon and grapefruit. High acidity. Medium finish. Alcohol: 12.5%. Average price (wine searcher): $18.
• The pairing: More fish, yes! For this pairing, we traveled southwest for Portuguese-style baked rockfish. I used yams, which I had on hand, instead of potatoes and squeezed lemon (detect a theme?) over the finished dish to crank up the acidity. Tomato and fishy juiciness was yummy with the wine.

2019 Domaine Bernard Defaix Petit Chablis AOC
A five-generation family of grape growers, Bernard Defaix started with five acres in 1959. After discovering how to protect vineyards from spring frost, the family was able to develop a steady business. Today, the domain consists of almost 67 acres in the Petit Chablis, Chablis and Chablis Premier Cru zones. Bernard’s two sons have been managing the domain for about 20 years.

The Defaix brothers have been steadily moving toward sustainable farming practices. They’ve extended these practices to the cellar, too. Since 2012, they’ve been producing “organic wines,” not only “wines produced from organic grapes.”

To become sustainable, they’ve had to completely rethink how they work the vineyard and help the vines to get back to their central role of fighting against parasites. In addition to using carefully managed copper and sulfur that are permitted in organic farming, they’re using various biodynamic preparations and herbal teas to increase soil vitality and to stimulate photosynthesis.

“In this context, we are getting closer to the working situation of our grandparents and then of our parents when they started,” they state. Except now, materials and forecasting tools are much better than in their grandparents’ day.

Studies show their soils are becoming more porous as a result of ploughing under and applying compost. Also, they’ve been able to wait several years before replanting vines by using cover crops during this time to rebuild the soil structure. This technique helps to destroy nematodes that prey on vines.

Vines are located on top of the hills on stony soils. The wine is aged on its fine lees in stainless-steel tanks for eight months.

• My tasting notes: Pale gold in color. Fruity aromas of apple and pear with a hint of white blossoms. Lemon and grapefruit on the palate, ending in a bitter fruit note. High acidity. Medium finish. Alcohol: 12%. Average price (wine searcher): $27.
• My pairing: Pesto linguine was supposed to be the main event, but an easy tuna/cannelloni bean salad stole the show. To make the salad, combine a can of cannelloni beans with either fresh (cooked) or canned tuna, about ¼ cup diced red onions, a clove of minced garlic, equal parts olive oil and lemon, salt, and pepper. Serve on a bed of spinach and top with micro-greens.

Lots to read from the French Winophiles. Help yourself!

• Pinny at Chinese Food and Wine Pairing gives us All Things #PureChablis with an Assortment of Seafood Snacks’ by Chinese Food and Wine Pairings.
• Camilla is Learning About Chablis, A Compelling Label, and Gougères at Culinary Adventures with Camilla.
• Deanna at Asian Test Kitchen makes A Poke Quartet Paired with a Duo of Chablis.
• Jeff at Food Wine Click! will be Remembering a Walk in Chablis over Dinner.
• Linda at My Full Wine Glass is Keeping it Simple with #PureChablis.
• Chablis and Grilled Shrimp; Summertime must be near for Wendy at A Day in the Life on the Farm.
• Scallops with Pesto and Chablis are in the kitchen with David at Cooking Chat.
• Jane will be Tasting Chablis: Food and Wine Pairings over at Always Ravenous.
• Robin at Crushed Grape Chronicles is Savoring Premier Cru Chablis as We Hope for Good News for the 2021 Chablis Vintage.
• Nicole at the Somm’s Table is Cooking to the Wine: Aged Drouhin Vaudon Grand Cru Chablis with Swordfish Sandwiches.
• Rupal the Syrah Queen explores The Elegance of Chablis – Pure Terroir, Pure Joy, Pure Chablis.
• The Sea in Chablis and the Tragedy of Premox in William Fevre is the topic at Wine Predator with Gwendolyn.
• Payal at Keep the Peas discusses The Singularity of Chablis.
• Terri at Our Good Life declares Let’s Talk About Chablis.
• Host Jill on L’Occasion gives the scoop on Here’s How I Know It’s Chablis.