Looking at holiday wine through rosé-colored glasses

Some rosé wines are pale salmon while others are Ballet-slipper pink. No matter the shade, rosé is more than a pretty face.

If you put away your rosé-colored glasses when the summer ended, now may be a good time to rethink pink. Here are four French Rosé wines that range from subtle and tangy to intensely aromatic. What’s your favorite shade of pink?

While the wines for this post were provided, opinions are my own.

2019 Vin de Provence AIX Rosé, Coteaux D’Aix En Provence AOC
60% Grenache, 20% Cinsault, 20% Syrah

Geeky stuff: AIX was founded in 1880, and the first vines were planted in 1973. The vineyard consists of 185 acres and is one of the largest estates in Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence. These vineyards are dry farmed and on a plateau at an elevation of 1,400 feet above sea level. Mistral winds keep the grape clusters dry. Soils vary from sandy and chalky to limestone.

AIX Rosé is produced in the typical Provencal style using the direct-pressing method. To avoid oxidation, the grapes are cold soaked and chilled to 46 degrees Fahrenheit. The grape clusters are then destemmed before pressing and are macerated at low temperatures for 5 to 6 hours. After fermenting in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks for 12 to 16 days, the must is kept at a low temperature, on the lees (spent yeast cells), for a week. The wine is then aged in a stainless-steel tank for 2 to 3 weeks before bottling.

2019 was a rough year in Provence – a dry and very hot summer followed by late rains. Grapes for this wine were picked as early as 4 am to maintain their freshness.

My tasting notes: Pale salmon in color. Typically subtle Provencal nose with a hint of grapefruit. Palate sings of ripe grapefruit and a touch of melon. Medium+ acidity. Medium+ finish. Alcohol: 13%. Price: $19.99.

2019 Chateau D’Aqueria Rosé, Tavel AOC
45% Grenache Noir and Blanc, 21% Clairette, 15% Cinsault, 8% Mourvèdre, 6% Syrah, 5% Bourboulenc

Geeky stuff: Grapes were handpicked from Château d’Aqueria’s own vineyards, which span 163 acres across the sandy slopes of Tavel, a southern Rhône Valley appellation that specializes in dry rosé wines. Varieties are blended together two by two. Once the ideal color is obtained, the entire tank is bled (Saignéemethod). The must is added back to the free-run juice. Grapes are then pressed and each variety is vinified separately, undergoing temperature-controlled maceration and fermentation in stainless steel vats for 15 days. Wines see no malolactic fermentation and no oak contact.

Extreme summer head in 2019 led to grape berries that were small but healthy. A sunny September allowed the grapes to reach full maturity.

My tasting notes: Rose-colored. Aromas of raspberry, strawberry, and bright cherry candy on the nose. More cherry candy on a spicy, peppery palate. Rounded mouthfeel with a bit of tannin and alcohol heat. Definitely the powerhouse of these four rosés. Medium acidity. Medium+ finish. Alcohol: 14.5%. Price: $19.99.

Map courtesy of Vineyards.com.

2019 Louis Jadot Rosé, Coteaux Bourguignons AOC
100% Gamay

Geeky stuff: Coteaux Bourguignons is an appellation covering red and white grapes grown throughout Burgundy. A difficult 2019 lowered the crop substantially compared to the year before. Volumes were down as much as 30-40% in some areas.

My tasting notes: Pale salmon. Faint Granny Smith apple aroma on the nose. Palate is light and slightly peachy, with grapefruit notes arriving at the end. Medium+ acidity. Medium+ finish. Alcohol: 12.5%. Price: $14.99.

2019 The Seeker Rosé Vin de France
70% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 5% Cinsault

Geeky stuff: “Vin de France,” formerly Vin de Table, is the most basic quality tier for French wines. Grapes for this wine are from vineyards mainly planted on granite slopes around Lyon, the capital city in France’s Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region. Late rain in 2019 led to mildew in some vineyards that reduced yields, but the overall quality of the harvest is considered good.

My tasting notes: Pale pink. A nose of subtle cherry and strawberries leads into the same notes on the palate with a bit of spice and pepper on the finish. Medium acidity. Medium+ finish. Alcohol: 13%. Price: $14.99.

Suggested holiday pairings: Lots of ways to go with these four French rosé wines. Choose one to serve with crab dip, shrimp cocktail, or a cheese plate as your first course. Pair with the big bird and trimmings for a refreshing palate cleanser to potatoes au gratin, creamy peas and onions, quiche, and green bean casserole. After dessert, when everyone in your household is pushing back their chairs, pour a cordial glass of Rosé as a final kiss goodnight.  

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