Trentino: Another option for Pinot Noir fans (#ItalianFWT)

Pinot Noir is one of life’s great sensory delights. The best Pinot Noir wines are medium-bodied, fruity yet earthy, smooth and elegant. Pinot Noir is a wine to sit beside and sniff repeatedly, at an unhurried pace, with or without food, company or conversation.

This thin-skinned, finicky red grape prefers cool-climate regions: Burgundy, France, the standard bearer, and the Willamette Valley of Oregon, for example. Fans will also find Pinot Noir in New Zealand and parts of Australia, the cooler subregions of California, the Alsace region of eastern France and across the border in Germany, where it is known as Spätburgunder.

Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are common blending partners in some of northern Italy’s most famous bubblies made in the traditional (Champagne) method: Franciacorta from Lombardy and Trentodoc from Trentino-Alto Adige. Though I was aware Trentino also produces still Pinot Noir, the Maso Poli I’m sharing for this #ItalianFWT post was my first. Once again, I have my local wine retailer to thank.

You’re invited to join the Italian Wine, Food and Travel (#ItalianFWT) bloggers as we explore Italy’s non-native (international) varieties. Simply join the Twitter chat on Saturday, 8/6, starting at 8 am PT/11 am ET, by following the hashtag. You’ll find links to all of the blog posts at the bottom of this page.

The region and the producer

Located in northern Italy, Trentino forms the southern half of the Trentino-Alto Adige region. The entire region is heavily influenced by German culture. Alto-Adige is German-speaking, while Trentino residents primarily speak Italian. Trentino is largely responsible for the region’s production of wine from non-native grapes.

Some 70% of land in Trentino is high in the Dolomite Alps, now a UNESCO Natural World Heritage Site. Vineyards are planted in the lower 10% of the region, but can still reach as high as 3,000 feet above sea level.

Mountain peaks and ridges cast a protective rain shadow over the vineyards and channel warm, drying breezes that keep away harmful fungal diseases. Despite the high altitude and temperate climate, summers can be hot. Winters are predictably cold and snowy.   

In addition to non-native varieties, mostly Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Merlot, the Trentino Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) allows wine from a wide range of native grapes, including Schiava, Teroldego and Lagrein.

Trentino Superiore DOC is a term reserved for high-quality wine made from grapes grown in a mountainous area comprising 72 winemaking municipalities in the province of Trento, especially in the Valle dell’Adige, Valle di Cembra, Vallagarina, Valle del Sarca, Valsugana and Valle Giudicarie. Here, at elevations between 820 and 2,300 feet above sea level, the soil has a high limestone content that allows for good drainage. Trentino Superiore DOC wines generally have a higher alcohol content and are aged longer than DOC wines.

Owned by the Togn family, Maso Poli consists of 37 acres of land – almost 25 of which are vineyards – and an 18^th century maso, or country farmhouse characteristic of the region. During the late ‘70s, the Togn family began renewing the vines and leveling and draining the soil. The maso was renovated in 2000 in a minimalist, contemporary style, and the tasting room opened in 2004. From the winery’s terrace, visitors have a panoramic view overlooking the Piana Rotaliana, an alluvial plain between the Adige and Noce rivers.

Sources: Italian Wine Guide, vias, wine-searcher

The wine: 2017 Maso Poli Pinot Noir, Trentino Superiore DOC
100% Pinot Noir

• Fun fact: According to vias, the importer of Maso Poli wines, the region’s Pinot Noir vines are originally from Burgundy, France, and arrived in Trentino via Germany around the beginning of the last century.

• Geeky stuff: Grown in clay soil with a limestone bedrock in a vineyard with south-west orientation, at an elevation of 1,300 to almost 2,000 feet. Fermented in 70% stainless steel tanks (12 days at 73°F) and 30% barrels. Skin contact for 10-15 days. Aged in barrels and barriques, 80% French oak with medium toast and 20% Slavonian oak, for 12 months, and in bottle for 10-12 months.

• My tasting notes: Light ruby in color with a brick-red rim. Blueberry, cherry, dried cranberry and baking spice on the nose with a whiff of sun-drenched earth. More of the same on the palate, ending on a peppery note. Integrated and elegant, dry, smooth and refined, with plenty of acid and a longish finish. Alcohol, at 14%, adds some warmth to this Pinot Noir. Price: $28, a bargain compared to Burgundy and Oregon.

• The pairing: Sorry, purists, but I didn’t choose Italian food for this Trentino Pinot Noir pairing. However, I did go with the producer’s recommendation: grilled meat, chicken to be specific. The spouse also grilled corn in their husks, and I added an easy green bean and roasted pepper salad in balsamic vinaigrette, topped with crumbled feta. The Pinot Noir played nicely with everything on the plate, though we would have been content to sip this elegant wine on its own. Here’s the marinade I whisked together for the chicken:

• 2-3 chicken quarters
• One diced shallot
• ¼ cup each of ground mustard and red wine vinegar
• ½ to 1 tbsp. finely chopped fresh or ground rosemary
• 1 tsp. ground tarragon (optional)
• Salt and pepper to taste

As promised, here’s the entire list of blog posts. Enjoy!

• Camilla of Culinary Adventures with Camilla whips up Deviled Eggs and a Chardonnay from Alto Adige.
• Lynn of Savor the Harvest shares The ‘Other’ Wine Grapes in Italy.
• Linda of My Full Wine Glass offers us Trentino: Another option for Pinot Noir fans.
• Jennifer of Vino Travels presents Blending the Non-Native Grapes of Puglia with the Trentatre Rosso.
• Susannah of Avvinare contributes Oltrepò Pavese – Pinot Noir Reaches New Heights.
• Deanna of Wineivore dishes up Butternut Squash Risotto Paired with Organic Merlot.
• Gwendolyn of the Wine Predator explores Chardonnay Blanc de Blanc: Ivaldi’s Andrea Alta Langa DOCG.
• Wendy of A Day in the Life on the Farm wonders An Italian Merlot? Sì, Grazie.
• Host Martin of ENOFYLZ Wine Blog pairs Mussels With Garlic and Parsley Paired with Cantina Terlan Kreuth Chardonnay.