Raising a glass of PA Cab Franc – paired with a Philly cheesesteak (#winePW)

Pennsylvania, my old home sweet home – I left your rolling farmland last June for the volcanic peaks and glimmering Puget Sound of western Washington, but you’ll always hold a special place in my heart. And occasionally I’m proud to say I’m a former Pennsylvanian.

As for wine, alas, your neighbors steal the spotlight. New York and Virginia. Even New Jersey. Though ranked 5^th in the nation for wine production, Pennsylvania, you rarely get noticed.

So, for this month’s Wine Pairing Weekend focus on under-the-radar wine regions, I’m opening a Pennsylvania wine from Lancaster County, in the southcentral region of the state. If reading this post in time, grab a glass of U.S. wine you like from any state – all 50 states produce wine – and join us Saturday, Nov. 14, starting at 8 am PT/11 am ET on Twitter. Simply follow the #winePW hashtag.

Quick PA wine facts

• Home to nearly 300 wineries and 14,000+ acres of vineyards.
• Approximately a $5 billion industry.
• More than 2 million gallons of wine produced per year.
• Varieties include international (vinifera), hybrid, and native grapes.

Notable AVAs (American Viticultural Areas)

• Lake Erie AVA  – Historically known as the “Grape Belt of America,” this region in the northwestern corner of the state is known for growing juice and table grapes and some wine grapes. Lake Erie moderates cold winter temps. The climate is like the Finger Lakes in New York State – ideal for Riesling, native grapes like Concord, Niagara, and Catawba, and hybrids like Noiret and Vidal Blanc.
• Lehigh Valley AVA – This region in the southeastern part of Pennsylvania is recognized for its microclimates and fertile land. Chambourcin, a hybrid, and Cabernet Franc are common reds. Whites include Vidal and Riesling. Lehigh Valley is also home to the original Grüner Veltliner plantings in PA.
• Lancaster Valley AVA – If you’ve heard of Lancaster County at all, you probably associate it with the Amish and other German sects that originally settled this south central region of Pennsylvania. The Lancaster Valley AVA rests on a deep limestone bed, soil that works for Cabernet, Chardonnay, and Riesling. In both these valley AVAs, summers are warm and humid, and winters are comparatively mild.

A bit of history

• When Prohibition ended in 1933, the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board was established to regulate the production and sale of wine.
• Act 272, the Limited Winery Act, was passed in 1968. This law restricts Pennsylvania wineries to producing wines made only from grapes grown in Pennsylvania and was meant as an incentive to growers to plant more vines.
• In 1999, a law was passed permitting wineries to purchase 25% of their grapes from growers within 350 miles of their winery. This law was in force until 2005, when the 350-mile limit on grape purchases was lifted, and Pennsylvania wineries could buy grapes from anywhere.
• In 2016, the PA Legislature passed Act 39. This law allows alcoholic beverage sales beyond producers and the state’s liquor system. Connected to this legislation was a $1 million award to the Pennsylvania Wine Marketing & Research Board for a statewide marketing campaign.

The wine – 2016 Grandview Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Lancaster County

Lancaster County is farm country. Visitors to The Vineyard at Grandview can enjoy sweeping views of the vines and surrounding area from the winery while sipping a glass of Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, or several other, mostly international grape varieties.

Larry and Marilyn Kennel own 5.5 acres of vineyards, and Larry has been making wine in this idyllic spot since 2009.

Long interested in agriculture, Larry Kennel worked on a dairy farm in his younger years, then as a veterinarian in a large animal medicine practice. Later, he owned Cornerstone Genetics, a business specializing in embryo transfer in cattle.

The dream for The Vineyard at Grandview started as a hobby. Kennel spent many hours harvesting roadside wineberries and elderberries to make dry fruit wines. In 2006 he learned that the soils on his family’s small farm would be good for growing wine grapes.

Kennel has had his share of ups and downs. His favorite white grape, Albariño, did not survive its first year. He replanted the vines in 2013. Then in 2018, a wet year, the vines produced only about 15% of a normal crop. Among the reds, Merlot found the climate too cold in Kennel’s vineyard, but Cabernet Franc has fared much better.

My tasting notes: Bright ruby in color. Aromas of blackberry, roses, and violet, followed by spice and more blackberry on a medium-bodied palate. Medium+ acidity. Medium+ finish. This 2016 oak-aged Cab Franc is still a bit tannic. Suggest decanting. Alcohol: 13%. Price: $31.

Suggested pairings: Had to go with a Philadelphia cheesesteak for this Pennsylvania wine. A couple of takeout places here in the Pacific Northwest specialize in this Philly mainstay. Other possibilities are charcuterie, toasted cheddar-cheese sandwiches, prosciutto-wrapped asparagus, bacon cheeseburgers, and – get ready for it – turkey!   

Sources: Grandview Vineyard, Pennsylvania Wine, Wine Business, Wine Industry Advisor.

Want to travel virtually to other under-the-radar US wine regions? Check out the posts below:

• Nicole from Somm’s Table is Cooking to the Wine: Acquiesce Grenache Rosé with a Glazed Stuffed Pork Loin Roast.
• Camilla from Culinary Adventures with Camilla says Mahalo Plenty! Hawaiian Sips and Nibbles.
• Wendy from A Day in the Life on the Farm adds Let’s Celebrate Thanksgiving by Eating and Drinking Locally.
• Jeff from Food Wine Click! brings Idiot’s Grace: Explorers in the Columbia Gorge AVA.
• David from Cooking Chat pairs Cranberry Jalapeño Dip with New England Wine.
• Linda from My Full Wine Glass suggests Raising a Glass of PA Cab Franc – Paired with a Philly Cheesesteak.
• Gwendolyn from Wine Predator showcases Local Love: 6 Ventura County Wines from Local Vines paired with Watkins Beef, Ventura Fresh Fish.
• Deanna from Asian Test Kitchen asks Is Virginia for Wine Lovers?
• Susannah from Avvinare offers Wines from New Mexico Paired with New Mexican Style Beef Chile.